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When curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary achievement.